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HIDDEN ITALY · OUTDOOR VICENZA
Hike, bike and ski the “Finland of Italy” in Vicenza
Nordic skiing, snowshoeing and summer trails on the Asiago Plateau
Wide pastures at 1,400 metres, Nordic ski trails and summer rides between mountain dairies. In the mountains of Vicenza, Italy’s own Finland rewards an appetite for the outdoors.
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Nordavind1709, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Know before you go
Choose your starting point for the activity you have planned. Marcesina and Campomulo have different approaches, and winter access depends on snow, road conditions and the trails currently open.
Marcesina is the “Finland of Italy”, a high plain on the Asiago Plateau in the province of Vicenza, near the Trentino border. At around 1,400 metres, pastures, peat bogs and spruce woods give this corner of northern Italy its distinctly Nordic appearance. Summer brings hiking and cycling between mountain farms; winter brings cross country skiing and snowshoeing across the snowfields.
Why is Marcesina called the Finland of Italy?
The nickname has a physical explanation: cold air collects in the basin, producing temperature inversions and exceptionally cold winter nights. There is a botanical surprise, too. The peat bogs shelter sundews, tiny carnivorous plants that trap insects, and bog rosemary, Andromeda polifolia, associated with colder northern habitats. The spruce woods still bear the scars of Storm Vaia, which struck in 2018.
Where to hike and cycle
For a walk with a definite route, follow the Valmaron, Forcellona and Marcesina circuit, itinerary D4 of La Via delle Malghe. Starting at Rifugio Valmaron, the 10.4 km loop crosses a low pass before descending into the plain and passing its mountain farms. Allow around three hours for the route, with 180 metres of ascent and extra time for lunch.
Road cyclists can follow itinerary D3, a 27 km loop from Bivio Dori through Valmaron, Marcesina and Lazzaretti di Foza, with 630 metres of ascent. Both routes are graded intermediate. For forest roads and mountain biking, Centro Fondo Enego Marcesina also offers electric mountain bike hire and guided rides.
Where to go Nordic skiing and snowshoeing
Centro Fondo Enego Marcesina serves the plain; Campomulo, above Gallio, provides another base for Nordic skiing on the plateau. La Piana follows the plain towards Rifugio Barricata. Experienced skiers can look at Campomulo’s 26 km Marcesina route, graded black and very difficult. Check which trails and connections are open before choosing your outing. Snowshoers use the designated walking routes, separate from the prepared ski tracks.
Bonus: mountain cheese after the trail
In summer, stop at 7 Caliere, at Malga Primo Lotto Valmaron, for mountain cheeses, grilled tosella, a fresh local cheese, and polenta. A malga is a seasonal mountain farm where cattle graze and milk is made into cheese. The family traces the name 7 Caliere to seven local farms that once shared a single caliera, the copper vat used for making cheese. The farm normally welcomes visitors from June to September; reserve lunch, particularly at weekends.